Investigation on the Validity of in vitro Sun Protection Factor and Ultraviolet-A Protection Factor Evaluation Method for Sunscreen Samples.

Factors affecting the in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and Ultraviolet-A Protection Factor (UVA-PF) of sunscreens were analyzed for verifying the validity and reliability of the ISO24443 evaluation method. UV absorbance measurements by different spectrophotometers did not lead to the large difference in in vitro SPF/UVA-PF, although the UV absorbance determined by each spectrophotometer exhibited relatively large difference when it was larger than 2. On the other hand, relatively large difference was found in in vitro SPF/UVA-PF by utilizing European Cosmetic and Perfumery Association (Colipa) 1994 or UV-solar simulated radiation (UV-SSR) for the spectral irradiance. Appropriateness of employing the coefficient of adjustment for the determination of in vitro UVA-PF was also found to be reexamined.

Evaluating the factors influencing sun protection factors (SPF): Pooling data from multiple studies involving two reference ISO 24444:2019 sunscreen products (P2 and P8).

BACKGROUND: Standardized methods for sun protection factor (SPF) testing are still beset with endpoint and method-driven issues, and can be influenced by multiple factors. The purpose of this analysis is to explore the factors influencing the results of sun protection factor (SPF) testing in human subjects according to the ISO 24444:2019 standard. Intrinsic factors, such as baseline skin color, age and gender, the minimal erythemal dose on an unprotected area (MEDu), as well as environmental factors such as season/weather influences, are considered for analysis. METHODS: Datasets generated for two reference products (P2 and P8) during the conduct of 50 such studies using the ISO standard 24444:2019 for the testing of SPF products, from a single testing center located in Bucharest, Romania between April 2021 and December 2022, were retrieved and compiled. Overall, the data for 334 subjects was available, with 276 observations for the reference P8, and 171 for P2. RESULTS: No effects due to gender or age were detected. Seasonal changes, the individual typology angle (ITA°) and MEDu were found to have an influence on the outcome of the SPF values. CONCLUSIONS: This study adds new original data about the impact of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on SPF variations pertaining to ISO reference sunscreen P8 (SPF 50+). The findings suggest that some factors will inevitably impact the results between two SPF experiments for the same product and SPF testing laboratory. The interconnections between the sources of this variation are discussed. The findings of this research help to identify and characterize factors that contribute to SPF testing variability.

Evaluation of social knowledge on photoprotection and its relationship with education and age in a Polish seaside town during summer holidays.

OBJECTIVE: This survey aimed to evaluate knowledge of photoprotection among individuals from a random group in a resort town in Poland, Kolobrzeg, and explore the correlation between their knowledge and demographics like age, gender, education, and residence. METHODS: An anonymous survey was conducted among a diverse group. This population comprised individuals from various backgrounds: health spa patients undergoing treatments, therapies and medical appointments, guests visiting the resort for leisure, passersby, and staff working at the spa and recreational facilities. The survey was designed by authors, encompassed 16 questions about knowledge on photoprotection, sunscreen use and related topics, and gathered demographic data. Responses from 142 individuals were statistically analyzed using PQStat Software. RESULTS: Only 7.7% use sunscreen all year-round. The majority apply sun protection factor (SPF) creams on sunny days or with prolonged sun exposure. Over half of the respondents (53.5%) are aware when to apply sunscreen but 43% reapply it less than every 4 h. 25.4% do not reapply at all. 38.7% think protection provided by higher SPF means longer sun exposure time. Over 50% believe SPF 30 offers double the protection of SPF 15. Almost half (46.8%) use extra sun protection, like sunglasses or hats. Significant correlations exist between education/age and certain survey responses. CONCLUSIONS: The findings emphasize the urgency to improve photoprotection knowledge in the Polish population, particularly regarding the year-round harmful solar effects and the correct use of sun protection products.

Repurposing consumer sunscreen habits and practices survey data to guide the development of UV filter environmental exposure models and risk assessments.

OBJECTIVE: A key factor that is deficient in most environmental emissions assessments for UV filters is a keen understanding of consumer habits and practices that can inform realistic exposure assessments. This study utilized a large volunteer survey (>11 000 persons) that captured many factors that affect consumer-based loadings to aquatic environments. The purpose of this study was to utilize this large survey to identify factors that affect the amount of sunscreen products used by consumers. METHODS: Correlations among more than 20 variables were used to provide an understanding of the overall dataset and identify factors that may be related to the amount of sunscreen product applied to the body (i.e., application thickness). Forward multiple linear regressions were used to identify the relative importance of each of these factors alone and in combination with others in predicting the amount of applied sunscreen. RESULTS: The proportion of body surface area (BSA) covered by sunscreen was the primary factor related to application thickness, followed by body surface area of the survey participant, seasonal usage, Fitzpatrick skin type and the sun protection factor, respectively. Each of the five regression models examined was statistically highly significant. CONCLUSIONS: Comparisons to recommendations from the National Academies of Science, Engineering and Medicine parameters illustrated sufficient differences so as to encourage the development of future consumer habits and practice surveys that include factors beyond the scope of this study (e.g., activities, time of day, year, location, etc.) that can lead to improved exposure and risk assessments.

OBJECTIF: Un facteur clé qui est insuffisant dans la plupart des évaluations des émissions environnementales pour les filtres UV est une bonne compréhension des habitudes et pratiques des consommateurs qui peuve informer sur les évaluations réalistes de l'exposition. Cette étude a utilisé une vaste enquête auprès de volontaires (> 11 000 personnes) qui a pris en compte de nombreux facteurs affectant les habitudes des consommateurs dans des environnements aquatiques. L'objectif de cette étude était d'utiliser cette vaste enquête pour identifier les facteurs qui affectent la quantité de produit d'écran solaire utilisée par les consommateurs. MÉTHODES: Des corrélations entre plus de vingt variables ont été utilisées pour fournir une compréhension de l'ensemble des données et identifier les facteurs qui peuvent être liés à la quantité de produit d'écran solaire appliqué sur le corps (c.-à-d., épaisseur d'application). Des régressions linéaires multiples ont été utilisées pour identifier l'importance relative de chacun de ces facteurs seuls et en association avec d'autres pour prédire la quantité d'écran solaire appliqué. RÉSULTATS: La proportion de la surface corporelle (SC) couverte par l'écran solaire était le facteur principal lié à l'épaisseur de l'application, suivie de la surface corporelle du participant à l'enquête, de l'utilisation saisonnière, du type de peau (Fitzpatrick) et du facteur de protection solaire, respectivement. Chacun des cinq modèles de régression examinés était hautement significatif statistiquement. CONCLUSIONS: Les comparaisons avec les recommandations des Académies nationales de la science, de l'ingénierie et de la médecine ont mis en évidence des différences suffisantes pour encourager le développement de futures enquêtes sur les habitudes et les pratiques des consommateurs qui incluent des facteurs dépassant le champ d'application de cette étude (ex., activités, moment de la journée, année, lieu, etc.) qui peuvent conduire à une amélioration de l'exposition et des évaluations des risques.

Application habits and practices of regular sunscreen users in the United States: Results of an online survey.

A nationwide online survey assessed claimed usage of sunscreen products in 2283 self-identified regular sun protection factor (SPF) consumers (RSPFC) in the United States. Subjects applied sunscreen most frequently when spending more than 3 h in the sun. Sunscreen usage peaks during the summer, with sunny weather prompting 99% usage of beach/recreational SPF products but drops to approximately 50% and 30% on partly cloudy and cloudy days, respectively, regardless of SPF product category. About half of RSPFC augment sunscreen product usage by limiting time in the sun and wearing a hat. SPF products are not reapplied by approximately 20-60% of RSPFC, depending upon product category, and reapplication was less than 33% on cloudy and partly cloudy days. Primary reasons for reapplication were water exposure, number of hours in the sun, and being active/sweating, most notably for beach/recreational SPF products. Importantly, in children, 45% of parents reported "redness" as a signal for reapplying sunscreen product. Only 10% of respondents correctly identified sunscreen products as drugs. Based on these results, while sunscreens may share common ingredients and efficacy measures, their usage by consumers varies widely depending on product type, season, weather, gender, age, and geographical location.

New formulation technology to boost sun protection.

OBJECTIVE: As every skin type worldwide is concerned by photoprotection, with consumers preferring cosmetic elegant and efficient sunscreen products, we aim at developing the most performant and desirable sun care products. METHODS: We selected an interesting polymer, abbreviated AAHCP and designed scanning electron cryomicroscopy (cryoSEM), small angle and wide angle X-ray scattering and confocal laser scanning microscopy studies to understand its behaviour in solution and in simplex sun care formulations. This allowed us to develop innovative sunscreen formulation technology that was demonstrated by in vitro and in vivo photoprotection methods. Comprehensive photoprotection evaluations were made on the fully developed sun protection product. RESULTS: We observed the polymer oil structuring properties as well as its ability to form small and stable droplets in simplex emulsions. In vitro and in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) measurements demonstrated the sun protection boosting efficacy of AAHCP polymer in several emulsions or as a stand-alone emulsifier. This formulation technology also allowed to filtering system concentration optimization. Use-test performed on a fully developed AAHCP-based sunscreen validated its optimal performances as well as its ideal cosmetic features, with non-sticky, non-greasy perception and invisible skin result. CONCLUSION: For the first time, thanks to a new specific polymer creating a new type of emulsion, we succeed in reconciliate in a single sun care product maximal SPF efficacy, resistance to numerous stresses and optimal sensoriality.

OBJECTIF: Tous les types de peau du monde étant concernés par la photoprotection, avec des consommateurs qui préfèrent des produits solaires élégants et efficaces, nous nous sommes donné pour mission de développer les produits de protection solaire les plus performants et les plus agréables. MÉTHODES: Nous avons sélectionné un polymère intéressant, l'« AAHCP ¼ dans sa forme abrégée, et avons conçu les études de cryomicroscopie électronique à balayage (CryoSEM), de diffusion des rayons X et de microscopie confocale à balayage laser (Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy) pour comprendre son comportement en solution et dans des formulations de protection solaire simples. Cela nous a permis de développer une technologie innovante de formulation de protection solaire, qui a été démontrée par des méthodes de photoprotection in vitro et in vivo. Le produit de protection solaire a fait l'objet d'évaluations exhaustives de la photoprotection à la fin de sa phase de développement. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons observé les propriétés de structuration de l'huile polymère, ainsi que sa capacité à former de petites gouttelettes stables dans les émulsions de simplex. Les mesures du facteur de protection solaire (sun protection factor, SPF) in vitro et in vivo ont montré que la présence du polymère AAHCP dans plusieurs émulsions ou comme émulsifiant autonome optimise le niveau de protection solaire obtenu. Cette technologie de formulation a également permis d'ajuster la concentration du système de filtration. Le test en conditions réelles d'utilisation effectué sur une protection solaire à base d'AAHCP à la fin de la phase de développement a permis de valider ses performances optimales, ainsi que ses caractéristiques cosmétiques idéales, avec une sensation non collante et non grasse, et un résultat invisible sur la peau. CONCLUSION: Pour la première fois, grâce à un nouveau polymère spécifique créant un nouveau type d'émulsion, nous avons réussi à développer un produit de protection solaire simple à l'efficacité SPF maximale, qui résiste à de nombreuses contraintes et possède une sensibilité optimale.

La piel hay que cuidarla. Consejos para protegerse del sol

Una piel sana nos cuida, pero el sol fuerte puede dañarla. Cuidemos nuestra piel con bloqueador solar y ropa adecuada.

Development of Photoprotective Formulations: Influence of Formulation Composition on the SPF and Mechanical Properties.

The evaluation of the vehicle formulation is important during the development of sunscreens, as it influences their efficacy. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop photoprotective formulations and evaluate the influence of the formulation components in the sun protection factor (SPF) and physical-mechanical and sensory properties of the formulations. We evaluated four sunscreens through a 22 full factorial design in terms of concentration and emulsifier type. The design of experiments (DOE) parameters were SPF, thixotropy, and work of shear. After the screening of the formulations by DOE, the SPF values, mechanical and sensory properties, and stability were evaluated. All study formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior, compatible with sunscreens, and presented SPF values above 30. The factors evaluated in DOE had significant interactions for all the analyzed parameters. The concentration of the phosphate-based emulsifier influenced the SPF parameter. The work of shear was influenced by the concentration of polyglyceryl-based emulsifier. The concentration and the type of emulsifier influenced the thixotropy. Finally, effective sunscreens were developed, and the type and concentration of emulsifiers had an influence on the SPF of the formulations. In addition, the formulations chosen by DOE were stable and showed good sensory properties.

Outdoor clinical testing with reference sunscreens to determine differences in skin response between populations of different ethnicity: A combined data analysis from 128 subjects.

BACKGROUND: Two previously published clinical studies by our group assessed erythema and pigmentation responses in outdoor conditions with three reference sunscreens, comparing their effectiveness under the full spectrum of natural sunlight. These studies followed an almost identical protocol but were conducted in two different locations and in two ethnic groups: broadly, Chinese (Singapore) and White European (Mauritius). We analysed the data from these two study populations to compare differences in skin response according to ethnicity. METHODS: The analysis included 128 subjects (53 were Chinese from Singapore and 75 were White European from Mauritius and Singapore). Products used were the reference sunscreens P3 (sun protection factor [SPF] 15), P5 (SPF 30) and P8 (SPF 50+) from ISO norm 24444:2019. Participants were exposed to outdoor sunlight for 2-3 h, depending on baseline ITA. Endpoints were erythema at 24 h: clinical score and colorimetry (Δa*) and pigmentation at 1 week based on colorimetry (ΔL* and ΔITA). RESULTS: Among those with baseline ITA > 41, there were differences in erythemal response between the Chinese and White European groups, the White European group being more erythematous and also having a higher rate of photoprotection failure particularly at SPFs 15 and 30. CONCLUSION: Differences in skin response to sun influenced by ethnicity should be taken into account when making recommendations on sun safety.

A Novel Approach in Skin Care: By-Product Extracts as Natural UV Filters and an Alternative to Synthetic Ones.

The cosmetic industry has been focusing on replacing synthetic ingredients with natural ones, taking advantage of their bioactive compounds. This work assessed the biological properties of onion peel (OP) and passion fruit peel (PFP) extracts in topical formulations as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants and UV filters. The extracts were characterized regarding their antioxidant capacity, antibacterial capacity and sun protection factor (SPF) value. Results revealed that the OP extract exhibited better results, which can result from the high concentrations of quercetin, as identified and quantified in HPLC analysis. Afterward, nine formulations of O/W creams were produced with minor changes in the quantity of additives: OP and PFP extract (natural antioxidants and UV filters), BHT (synthetic antioxidant) and oxybenzone (synthetic UV filter). The stability of the formulations was determined for 28 days; it was verified that they remained stable throughout the study period. The assays of the formulations' antioxidant capacity and SPF value revealed that OP and PFP extracts have some photoprotective properties and are excellent sources of antioxidants. As a result, they can be incorporated in daily moisturizers with SPF and sunscreens replacing and/or diminishing the quantities of synthetic ingredients, reducing their negative effects on human health and the environment.

A Bioinspired Skin UV Filter with Broadband UV Protection, Photostability, and Resistance to Oxidative Damage.

In recent years, sunscreens' adverse impacts on the environment and biology have gained wide attention. The improvement of sunscreen safety has become one of the major priorities in skin photoprotection research. It is an effective strategy to develop bionic photoprotective materials by simulating the photoprotective mechanism existing in nature. Inspired by the photoprotective mechanisms of skin and plant leaves, the bionic photoprotective material CS-SA-PDA nanosheet was developed using the free radical grafting method and Michael addition, with natural melanin analogue polydopamine (PDA) nanoparticles and plant sunscreen molecular sinapic acid (SA) as sun protection factors and natural polymer chitosan (CS) as the connecting arm. The results show that CS-SA-PDA can effectively shield UVB and UVA due to the possible synergistic effect between PDA and SA. The introduction of polymer CS significantly improved the photostability of SA and reduced the skin permeability of PDA nanoparticles. The CS-SA-PDA nanosheet can also effectively scavenge photoinduced free radicals. Furthermore, in vivo toxicity and anti-UV evaluations confirm that CS-SA-PDA has no skin irritation and is excellent against skin photodamage, which makes it an ideal skin photoprotective material.

Development and evaluation of sunscreen cream containing solid lipid nanoparticles of Spinacia oleraceae.

More research is needed to understand the benefits of environmentally safe and human-friendly herbal-based sunscreen agents against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Because of the toxicity of synthetic chemicals in photoprotective agents, researchers were increasingly focusing on herbal photoprotective formulations. The photoprotective agent's skin retention can be considerably improved by forming solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN). The study's objective is to evaluate the photoprotective potential of sunscreen cream containing spinach (Spinacia oleracea)-loaded SLN. A solvent emulsification technique was used to develop the spinach-loaded SLN. The various characterization techniques of the developed SLN were performed. Out of all the formulations, the optimized one was fitted into cream and estimated for its photoprotective action. The images obtained from scanning electron microscopy (SEM) revealed the morphological characteristics of the prepared SLN. The sunscreen cream's viscosity, spreadability, extrudability, and release rate were within acceptable limits. The formulation's in vitro and in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) was reported to be 15.9 and 14.75, respectively. The results indicated that the prepared formulation possesses good photoprotective action. The accelerated stability tests were carried out with no noticeable changes in the parameters. Our work demonstrated the possibility of using spinach-loaded SLN as a photoprotective agent in cosmetic formulations.

Light-colored lignin extraction by ultrafiltration membrane fractionation for lignin nanoparticles preparation as UV-blocking sunscreen.

A wide range of applications are available for kraft lignin (KL). However, the dark color and wide size distribution of KL make it challenging to use in cosmetics and nanoparticle preparation. In this study, we fractionated KL from a paper-making enterprise using ultrafiltration membrane fractionation, and obtained four kinds of lignin with different molecular weights, namely ultrafiltration lignin (UL). Following that, lignin nanoparticles (ULNPs) were formed by self-assembly from four types of UL. Analyzing the UL and ULNP properties, the low molecular weight lignin, such as ULA, exhibited good antioxidant properties (89.47 %, 5 mg/mL), high brightness (ISO% = 7.55), high L⁎ value (L⁎ = 72.3) and low polydispersity index (PDI = 1.41). The ULNP showed a narrow size distribution (0.8-1.4 m) and high dispersibility in sunscreen. When ULNP was added to sunscreen with 5 % load, its sun protection factor (SPF) value increased from 14.93 to 63.74. Therefore, this study offered an effective way for the comprehensive utilization of pulping waste KL.

Characteristics and common ultraviolet filter usage of sunscreens purchased online: Cross-cultural analysis across 5 continents.

BACKGROUND: A wide range of sunscreen products are available globally. Designed to meet various customer needs, they differ in formulations type, textures, ingredients, ultraviolet (UV) protection capabilities, and other properties. Knowing the factors influencing the purchase of sunscreens and the UV filters commonly used in each global region would be beneficial for dermatologists, consumers, and regulators. METHODS: Data on 50 best-selling sunscreens from each of 20 countries on 5 continents (1000 products in all) were retrieved from Amazon Marketplace during the period from January to July 2021. RESULTS: Among the 5 continents, Asia had the highest proportion of consumers (71.1%) choosing high sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreens (SPF ≥50). In contrast, Europe had the highest percentage (11.8%) purchasing <30 SPF sunscreens. The lack of standard UVA protection labeling was significantly highest in South America. The use of inorganic-based sunscreen was highest in North America, and across all continents, those products were significantly more expensive than organic-based sunscreens. Globally, lotions were the most favored formulation type. "Nongreasy/dry touch" (45.1%) and "lightweight texture" (40.4%) were the most common promotional terms used. The most common UV filters differed among regions. Iron oxide, which can function as a visible light filter, was most frequently found in sunscreens in South America (20%) and North America (19.3%). CONCLUSIONS: The regional factors influencing the purchase of sunscreen products differed. A considerable number of sunscreens may not provide adequate sun protection for consumers. Dermatologists should recommend sunscreens with sufficient UV protection that suit the skin of individual consumers.

Ultraviolet filters in the United States and European Union: A review of safety and implications for the future of US sunscreens.

BACKGROUND: Availability of new UV filters in the United States lags behind the European Union (EU), partly due to differing approval processes. OBJECTIVE: To review available human safety data of all US- and EU-approved UV filters. METHODS: Data from Food and Drug Administration and EU regulatory guidelines, federal governmental documentation, databases, reviews, and opinions for approval and ongoing safety evaluation were analyzed. RESULTS: Currently, there are 17 US UV filters and 29 EU UV filters (18 EU-approved only filters). Almost all US filters possessed sensitization data (94%, 16/17) with the majority (76%, 13/17) showing minimal skin sensitization. The minority of EU-approved only filters (33%, 6/18) possessed sensitization data, all showing no sensitization. Some filters possessed dermal absorption data (US: 76%, 13/17; EU: 44%, 8/18). Oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, homosalate, and octocrylene, approved in the US and EU, were shown to have plasma levels exceeding the Food and Drug Administration exposure threshold. LIMITATIONS: Proprietary manufacturer human data were unavailable. CONCLUSIONS: Many new UV filters are available in the EU, but not yet in the United States. Rigorous US and EU guidelines ensure that UV filters provide adequate photoprotection assuming consumers follow American Academy of Dermatology SPF (sun protection factor) and broad-spectrum recommendations. Human data are limited, but known human risks of sunscreen appear minimal.

Development and characterization of photoprotective nanoemulsions containing Babassu (Orbignya phalerata Mart. ) lipophilic extract

Abstract Oil-in-water photoprotective nanoemulsions (NEs) were developed using Babassu (BBS) lipophilic extract, nonionic surfactants, and low concentrations of organic sunscreens by ultrasonic processing. BBS extract was chosen due to its suitable physicochemical properties (acidity index, peroxide index, refraction index, and relative density) and predominance of saturated fatty acids, identified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), which promote biological activities and high oxidative stability. NEs were characterized by mean droplet size, morphology, polydispersity index (PdI), pH, and organoleptic properties, and the physical stability of the NEs was evaluated for 120 days at room temperature. The sun protection factor (SPF) was determined, and the photostability and in vitro cytotoxicity assays were performed for NEs. All NEs remained stable for 120 days, with a droplet size <150 nm and a monomodal distribution profile. The pH values were compatible with the skin's pH. NE3 showed a spherical morphology, with a mean droplet size of 125.15 ± 0.16 nm and PdI of 0.145 ± 0.032. NE3 containing BBS extract and sunscreens presented an SPF of 35.5 ± 3.0, was photostable after 6 h of radiation and was non-cytotoxic to fibroblast cells. Thus, NE3 could be considered a promising formulation for developing synergic plant-extract sunscreen photoprotective products for the market

Avaliação da composição e rotulagem de fotoprotetores labiais comercializados em farmácias / Evaluation of the composition and labeling of lip photo protectors marketed in pharmacies

Introdução: os efeitos deletérios da radiação ultravioleta (UV) sobre os tecidos labiais podem desencadear diversas lesões, inclusive de caráter maligno. A utilização de produtos fotoprotetores tem sido a melhor opção contra os efeitos nocivos dessa radiação. Diversas marcas de fotoprotetores labiais (FPL) estão disponíveis no mercado, onde o consumo é diretamente influenciado por qualidade e preço. Objetivo: analisar e comparar FPLs disponíveis em farmácias quanto à composição, ao preço e às características de rotulagem, segundo regulamentações da ANVISA. Metodologia: foi realizado estudo descritivo, que avaliou FPLs, quanto a FPS, indicação, constituintes químicos, FPUVA, preço e rótulo. Informações sobre as substâncias presentes e suas funções foram obtidas no INCI (Comissão Europeia), e os filtros solares foram identificados na INN (Organização Mundial da Saúde). As avaliações de rotulagem foram baseadas nas Resoluções da Diretoria Colegiada da ANVISA de nº 30/12, nº 7/15 e nº 69/16. Resultados: dezessete FPLs foram avaliados. Cinco apresentaram FPS 15; três, FPS 20; seis, FPS 30; e três, FPS 50. Dez filtros UV foram identificados, estando o Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate presente em maior número de FPLs. Doze produtos informaram ter proteção UVA. As características dos rótulos se encontravam dentro das determinações da ANVISA, na grande maioria dos casos. Houve alta variação do preço. Conclusão: a partir deste estudo, foi possível conhecer mais sobre a composição e as características dos FPL, principalmente sobre FPS e FPUVA, bem como se estão de acordo com as normas estabelecidas pela ANVISA, propiciando um maior conhecimento dos produtos que estão sendo comercializados.

Introduction: the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on lip tissues can trigger several lesions, including malignant ones. The use of photoprotective products has been the best option against the harmful effects of this radiation. Several brands of lip sunscreens (FPL) are available on the market, where consumption is directly influenced by quality and price. Objective: to analyze and compare SPFs available in pharmacies in terms of composition, price and labeling characteristics, according to ANVISA regulations. Methodology: a descriptive study was carried out, which evaluated FPLs, in terms of SPF, indication, chemical constituents, PPD, price and label. Information on the substances present and their functions were obtained from the INCI (European Commission), and the sunscreens were identified from the INN (World Health Organization). The labeling evaluations were based on the Resolutions of the Collegiate Board of Directors of ANVISA No. 30/12, No. 7/15 and No. 69/16. Results: seventeen FPLs were evaluated. Five had SPF 15; three, SPF 20; six, SPF 30; and three, SPF 50. Ten UV filters were identified, with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate present in the highest number of FPLs. Twelve products reported having UV protection. The characteristics of the labels were within the determinations of ANVISA, in the vast majority of cases. There was a high price variation. Conclusion: from this study, it was possible to know more about the composition and characteristics of FPL, mainly about SPF and UV, as well as whether they are in accordance with the standards established by ANVISA, providing a greater knowledge of the products that are being marketed.

Revealing the relationship between molecular weight of lignin and its color, UV-protecting property.

Lignin has great potential as a natural, green, and sustainable broad-spectrum sunscreen active ingredient. However, the coexistence of dark color and sunscreen properties hinders its application in cosmetics. In this study, we focus on the effects of the molecular weight of lignin on tis UV-protecting property and color in order to prepare lignin-based sunscreen with high performance. A prepared sunscreen containing low molecular weight lignin (F5, <1000 g/mol) exhibits good UV-protecting property (sun protection factor (SPF) = 7.14) and light color advantages (ΔE = 46.2). Moreover, a strong synergistic effect on UV-protecting property exists between low molecular weight lignin and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), resulting in high SPF of F5@EHMC-based sunscreen (55.56). Additionally, added TiO2 can efficiently mitigate the dark color of lignin-based sunscreens due to prominent covering power of TiO2. Moreover, lignin-based sunscreens have good biocompatibility with HaCaT cells. This work is useful for understanding the mechanism of the UV-protecting property and dark color of lignin, and for designing an efficient and safe lignin-based sunscreen.

Hydroxy-3-Phenylcoumarins as Multitarget Compounds for Skin Aging Diseases: Synthesis, Molecular Docking and Tyrosinase, Elastase, Collagenase and Hyaluronidase Inhibition, and Sun Protection Factor.

Skin aging is a progressive biological process of the human body, and it is not only time-dependent. Differently substituted 3-phenylcoumarins proved to efficiently inhibit tyrosinase. In the current work, new substitution patterns have been explored, and the biological studies were extended to other important enzymes involved in the processes of skin aging, as elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. From the studied series, five compounds presented inhibitory activity against tyrosinase, one compound against elastase, eight compounds against collagenase and two compounds against hyaluronidase, being five compounds dual inhibitors. The 3-(4'-Bromophenyl)-5,7-dihydroxycoumarin (1) and 3-(3'-bromophenyl)-5,7-dihydroxycoumarin (2) presented the best profiles against tyrosinase (IC50 = 1.05 µM and 7.03 µM) and collagenase (IC50 = 123.4 µM and 110.4 µM); the 3-(4'-bromophenyl)-6,7-dihydroxycoumarin (4) presented a good inhibition against tyrosinase and hyaluronidase; the 3-(3'-bromophenyl)-6,7-dihydroxycoumarin (5) showed an effective tyrosinase and elastase inhibition; and 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3'-hydroxyphenyl)coumarin (11) presented a dual profile inhibition against collagenase and hyaluronidase. Furthermore, considering the overall activities tested, compounds 1 and 2 proved to be the most promising anti-aging compounds. These compounds also showed to have a photo-protective effect, without being cytotoxic to human skin keratinocyte cells. To predict the binding site with the target enzymes, computational studies were also carried out.